Calcutta may now be Kolkata, but the soul of the city is intact with its centuries-old culture, traditions and values. Once the capital of British India, it still reflects the glories of its past in the form of architecture, food and timeless neighbourhoods. Bow Barracks – the quaint and quiet lane in central Kolkata – is one such place that stands witness to the era gone by and is also a home to the Christian and Anglo-Indian communities residing in the city since decades. The locality has always been a point of interest for many authors and film-makers, and Anjan Dutt (film-maker and musician) is one such example. He not only directed Bow Barracks Forever, but has also been part of the music fiesta that happens at the venue. Musicians like Franacis Lepcha and Shayne Hyrapiet too have been a part of the musical evenings during Christmas weekends.
Bow Barracks may appear to be just another enclave but it has a renewed spirit during this time. The heritage quarters comprising of two blocks of red brick houses are adorned with lights, Christmas trees, silver bells and streamers, and the excitement amongst locals is evident in the zeal with which they carry out preparations. Christmas at Bow Barracks is not just a festival, it’s a grand celebration where people from different ethnicities and backgrounds come together to live out moments of happiness. Over the years, many residents have moved out and settled in different neighbourhoods and even countries, but they keep coming back to the Barracks for Christmas. And if someone is missing out on the action, they can be a part of the celebrations virtually, as now there is live streaming of the events undertaken by members of the Bow United Organisation.
Festivities and food go hand-in-hand, but here it’s not really about a commercial kitchen serving good food, rather it’s about aunts and grannies preparing simple and humble food served in stalls that are not to be judged but only to be loved. While the ladies of the house prepare their best cakes in varied flavours of plum, walnut, madeira and fruit, others work hard to woo food lovers with a wide selection of delicacies like vindaloo, akhni pilaf, beef salt meat, khuska rice with cocktail sausages, duck preparations and other traditional dishes along with home-made grape and ginger wine. The festivities begin from December 22 and go on till the second day of the New Year, but if food is your main reason for visiting. then you need to head there on December 23 as the food stalls are on only for that particular day.
If you are not into old-school charm, then Park Street is the place where you can enjoy your Christmas weekends. The area is said to resemble celebrations from the iconic Oxford Street in London. The annual Kolkata Christmas Festival, where this year more than 40 food stalls representing various F&B brands would be offering their house specialties, is also held here with much gusto. Allen Park on Park Street becomes the destination for all music lovers as renowned city bands and musicians to perform live.
For those who love to enjoy their Christmas in a more spiritual way, there’s the midnight mass at St. Paul’s Cathedral, where you can also hum along with the Christmas carols. For street food, New Market has some amazing options. Nahaoum – the old favourite known for their fruit and plum cakes – is a must-visit for baked goodies, while the bazaar section of the market features hawkers selling turkey.
The restaurants too are rustling up Christmas specials for their patrons. Be it the F&B outlets at star properties or standalone options, each of them will be offering exquisite delicacies during Christmas apart from adorning their places in-sync with the Xmas theme.
Check out any of these neighbourhoods to feel the magic of this month in Kolkata, and do write back to us with your experiences.
-This article was initially published in timescity.
-Photographs by Raina Kshetry and from other public sources.
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